Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Boa Páscoa in MZ

Our private lagoon













Our Easter hut master suite
















Our rustic kitchen
















Our Easter orchids grew in the trees!




















We found a Catholic Church right in our little beach village.















It was decidedly lower key than St. Patrick's Cathedral.














But the music was just as awesome ...





Mozambican Easter bonnets in church ...


and in the Easter parade!
















After Mass we took a boat across the lagoon to the Indian Ocean for some snorkeling and scuba diving ...




Beyond that spit of sand, the Indian Ocean!










nature's decorated eggs

Instead of pastel colored Easter eggs, we had colorful fishing boats for decorations.










Fishing boats meant that instead of our usual Easter fare like salmon, veal and lamb, we had Mozambican prawns, calamari and langosta in stews, curries and on platters. Fresh off the boat!








Found so many of these large seeds from the Monkey Ladder trees on the beach. After I clean and polish them, they will make great decorations hanging on next year's Easter tabletop tree.



Thursday, April 17, 2014

Sushi a Go Go

Blackanese puts on monthly pop-up penthouse dinners. Although I was told last night that they have become so popular, they've increased them to bi-monthly. How did I not know this?

Well I do now and that is the important thing. Last night's dinner featured a Glenfiddich whisky tasting too. Whisky and sushi? Okay.
with Gerald and AFAR magazine Ambassador Nina Dietzel

It is the place to be as evidenced by the appearance of local Joburg expert and man-about-town Gerald Garner. (Gerald is downtown Joburg's walking tour operator and author of JoburgSpaces and the soon to be released SandtonPlaces.) Check out Blackanese's Facebook page for future dinners. Check out Gerald's Facebook page for tours and books.

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Visa or No Visa?

Zimbabwe - Zambia border crossing
Good thing I checked.

American citizens need a visa to enter Mozambique. This may seem obvious to you but in my defense there does not seem to be a hard nor a fast rule as to whether or not someone holding an American passport - even one with a South African permanent residence visa attached - needs an additional country travel visa to cross into another African country. Zimbabwe and Zambia require a visa. Botswana and Namibia do not. Not sure about Rwanda and Malawi. But Kenya and Tanzania? Yep. No for Lesotho and Swaziland.

You can get your tourist visa right at the point of entry in many cases - the airport or at the entry border if you're driving - but who wants to waste the time? Processing a visa can take hours if you're driving into Mozambique. It is the stuff of legends. Best to do as much in advance as possible.

Here is a handy-dandy chart which breaks it down by whether one needs a tourist visa, business visa or official visa. Better double-check before you head out though. I have a feeling it may change with the political wind.

Luckily Vince found a great place in Pretoria that can expedite a visa application in a day. Sometimes while you wait. Which is just what we needed for our Easter weekend road trip to Mozambique.


Good thing I checked.

PS if you are driving there in a rented 4 by 4 as we are, you need more than just a visa. You will also need a letter from the rental car company saying it is okay to bring the car into Mozambique, a ZA sticker on the car, a copy of the car registration, reflective clothing in case you get a flat, and a partridge in a pear tree.

Sunday, April 6, 2014

Easter in Africa: Get a Hat!

With my sister on the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem
Easter is the holiest of the high holy days of the Christian calendar. It is therefore also a holiday filled with lots of tradition.

We go to Church. We receive palms on Palm Sunday. We eat special foods. We wear brand new clothes from head to toe. We celebrate rebirth and the resurrection with hot cross buns, orchid corsages, lilies, hyacinths, daffodils and tulips, dyed eggs, jelly beans, marzipan and chocolate bunnies.





And some of us wear hats.

I grew up wearing hats at Easter and bought and wore a new one each and every year. Yes, Easter is first and foremost the holy day where we commemorate the resurrection of our salvation, the Lord, Jesus Christ ... but it also a great day to go out and get a hat!

And for as long as I can remember our Easters looked like this ...






the line outside St. Patrick's waiting to get Lenten ashes inside
First, on Ash Wednesday, we begin the 40 day season of Lent by going to church and having a black cross made from the blessed ashes of last year's burnt Palm Sunday palms applied to our foreheads. Sacrifice, Stations of the Cross, rice bowl banks, and fasting follow.

It is also the day when we dropped off our written request for free tickets to the 10:15 Easter Sunday High Mass at St. Patrick's Cathedral ...







... and on Easter morning, we would take those tickets and go to Mass.








St. Patrick's Cathedral is the perfect place to wear an Easter bonnet ...




... because the Cathedral's Fifth Avenue center doors open up after the recessional and before the Alleluia chorus and you and the music (Hallelujah Chorus from Handel's Messiah) literally spill out into the epicenter of the annual Easter Parade.





" ... the photographer will snap us, and you'll find that you're in the rotogravure"


Yes, that Easter Parade.
on the avenue, Fifth Avenue















It's not really a parade; it's more like a promenade started by the dressed-up worshipers who attended services at the many cathedrals and churches which still line Fifth Avenue.

Fifth Avenue itself is closed to traffic for more than ten blocks and it has now become an Easter street festival ... and in the past few years, somewhat of a carnival.






And New York's modern answer today to the rotogravure? That would be Bill Cunningham's "On the Street."












My sister and I finally made it into his column - only once - after literally years and years of being photographed by Bill on Easter Sunday.














Mass and the Easter Parade are followed by brunch out somewhere festive (we are all dressed up after all!) and nearby with the Easter puppies and/or ...

... with an Easter bunny.










some of my pysanky collection


Other traditions we enjoy, ...

I have been making pysanky - the traditional Slavic Easter eggs -  for many years. I decorate and lacquer them and save them from year to year until they eventually dry up inside. Some of these are more than twenty years old and very fragile! They did not make the commute to South Africa and are (hopefully) safe in storage back in the USA.


In addition to pysanky which are not cooked and therefore not edible, we would also hard boil and dye other eggs to eat!
















It is also traditional in Slavic cultures to have your Easter foods ceremonially blessed at church.











Getting ready to bring our Easter food for a paschal blessing at my sister's church in Denver on Holy Saturday.











Mindowaskin Park in Westfield



When our children were little, we would take them on Easter egg hunts at our church, clubs or local town parks.

We also always had our own egg hunts at home on Easter morning. This one was a Holy Thursday scavenger hunt we organized all around our garden for my niece Aly a couple of years ago.


The last clue led her to the greenhouse which hid her garden-themed Easter "basket."

Once we graduated from chocolate bunnies and jelly beans, our Easter baskets took on many shapes and themes, like my niece Jill's Marie Antoinette paper crown "basket" ...










... filled with goodies fit for a queen. xoxo


Or another year, these Jason Wu pocketbooks filled with little Easter gifts for my sister.


 ... and my niece Jill.
















A tool-bag-turned-Easter-basket for my son Nick.


Vince was the most creative of all with his Easter baskets though. Like a couple of years ago when he was making this dovecote for me for my birthday in May - and before he raised it up on its high metal stand - he used it as my Easter "basket" in April. Clever boy!












My soon-to-be dovecote became a temporary "peep-cote."















Clearly there is no substitute for New York's Fifth Avenue Easter Parade in Jozi. There is only one Easter Parade. So that is one tradition we will have to forgo this year. But in anticipation of our move, I had already started shedding traditions last year.



I spent last Easter in Denver with my sister and her family. My sons came out from California for the weekend. (Poor Vince was already in South Africa with the Easter puppies.) We did go to church of course and had Easter brunch and festivities at my sister's country club. But no Easter Parade and so I decided, no hat. Why buy another hat just to turn around and add it to the already burgeoning storage container in Missouri?







Jill

But we did dye Easter eggs at her home ...










Nick




... and made Easter baskets too.

















We prepared special foods. And it was still so great!!!












Not exactly sure yet what our Easter will look like this year in Africa. We are planning to spend it scuba diving (Vince) and snorkeling (me) in Mozambique, a former Portuguese colony and therefore guaranteed to have at least one Roman Catholic Church around for an Easter Mass.





... But unlike last year, I already know it will include a hat!







Saturday, April 5, 2014

SA in SF

If you find yourself in San Francisco before June 29, make your way over to the Yerba Buena Center for the Arts like I did to see ...

Public Intimacy: Art and Other Ordinary Acts in South Africa
Here's the description: "Disrupting expected images of South Africa, the 25 contemporary artists and collectives featured in Public Intimacy eloquently explore the poetics and politics of the everyday. This collaboration with Yerba Buena Center for the Arts presents pictures from SFMOMA’s collection of South African photography alongside works in a broad range of media, including video, painting, sculpture, performance, and publications — most made in the last five years, and many on view for the first time on the West Coast. Coinciding with the 20th anniversary of democracy in South Africa, Public Intimacy reveals the nuances of human interaction in a country still undergoing significant change, vividly showing public life there in a more complex light.

Public Intimacy includes works by Ian Berry, Ernest Cole, David Goldblatt, Handspring Puppet Company, Nicholas Hlobo, ijusi (Garth Walker), Anton Kannemeyer, William Kentridge, Donna Kukama, Terry Kurgan, Sabelo Mlangeni, Santu Mofokeng, Billy Monk, Zanele Muholi, Sello Pesa and Vaughn Sadie with Ntsoana Contemporary Dance Theatre, Cameron Platter, Lindeka Qampi, Jo Ractliffe, Athi-Patra Ruga, Berni Searle, Penny Siopis, Mikhael Subotzky and Patrick Waterhouse, and Kemang Wa Lehulere."

You will be glad you did.

Source: http://www.sfmoma.org/exhib_events/exhibitions/575#ixzz2vMwr7Cob
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art