Monday, January 12, 2015

A Rite of Summer

The article in the (Cape Town) Weekend Argus stated, "One thing you absolutely positively totally and unquestionably have to do in Cape Town during summer is attend at least one concert at Kirstenbosch. If not, as a local, you will be stripped of Capetonian status, and if you're a visitor, your holiday will be a fail."

Strong words! Who am I to argue? So we checked out another local South African band Vince has been wanting to see live in concert. The Parlotones.











made it!

The Parlotones were sold out!

Gates open at 4:00

not a bad seat in the house

bring a parasol

and a picnic

remember this wine ...

... and this one too!

The boys take the stage


sundown

sundowner

everybody up for the encore


signing autographs after the show


Saturday, January 10, 2015

South African Car Bingo

Vince and I have done spent some time criss-crossing South Africa by car. Along the west coast from Cape Town to Namibia. Through the Karoo from Joburg to Cape Town. Along the southern coast from Port Elizabeth to Cape Town. Up the east coast from Durban to Kosi Bay. From East London along the Wild Coast. Through the Kalahari to Botswana. From Joburg to Zimbabwe in the north and Mozambique in the east.

I am not sure how many kilometers we have actually logged since we've arrived here, but at this point I think it's more than enough for us to qualify as experts in a little game we like to call South African Car Bingo. (It is American Car Bingo but adapted to South Africa.)





These are some of the things that you will find on our bingo cards:
  • someone carrying something illogically large on their head
  • a "beware of potholes" sign
  • a pothole that looks like it could swallow your car
  • an ostrich crossing the road
  • a cow crossing the road
  • a baboon crossing the road
  • sheep crossing the road
  • guinea fowl crossing the road
  • human beings crossing a highway
  • a tuck shop
  • a winkel
  • a sign with a street name in two languages
  • a thatched rondavel
  • any Voortrekker Street
  • a mailbox with the name du Toit, du Plessis or Pretorious on it
  • a child carrying more than one jerry can filled with water
  • a woman with a baby strapped to her back
  • a barefoot child
  • a taxi making an illegal move
  • someone hailing a taxi with a taxi hand sign
  • three or more speed humps in a row
  • someone braaing boeries on the side of the road
  • someone cutting hair outside on the side of the road
  • someone urinating on the side of the road in plain sight
  • a police checkpoint
  • a sign advertising anything plus biltong
  • a sign advertising "the best" panelbeater
  • a "we love you Madiba" billboard
  • a KFC
  • a robot that is not working
  • someone at a robot selling something, advertising something, collecting trash or begging
  • a mine dump
  • a bakkie with six or more people in the back 
  • a police checkpoint
  • people dressed in white worshiping in a circle
  • a woman with a baby strapped to her back
  • a sign advertising penis enlargement by a sangoma
  • a slaghuis
  • a wildfire burning
  • a wine route sign
  • a 4X4 only sign
  • a car stuck in the mud or sand who ignored the 4X4 only sign
  • a car with a Mozambique triangle on the bumper
  • a town name with -spruit or -fontein as part of it
  • car with a rhino horn on the hood
"The miles will fly and the kids won't cry when you play South African Car Bingo."

Thursday, January 8, 2015

There's an app for that

Here are the names of some good wildlife apps for travel through Southern Africa:

1. Bird Brains: The Sasol eBirds of Southern Africa app.
2. eMammal: The eGuide to Mammals of Southern Africa Guide, and
3. Snakes Alive: The eSnakes of Southern Africa app.

All are available on IOS and Android. You're welcome.

I Love F'n Technology!

We couldn't use our GPS for the last leg of our drive to Bhanga Nek and Kosi Bay in KZN. There were no points of interest or town names to enter as a final destination. Luckily Tracy Woodland, our travel consultant at African Sojourns, furnished us with excelllent directions.

For the last hour we basically reckoned by compass over deep sandy roads collectively called the "Alley." The name never changed. The directions Tracy gave us basically said, "after you cross the bridge, you should travel in a north-easterly directions. At places there are a few sand tacks in more or less the same direction - it's usually best to follow the most used one. Basically all roads lead to Bhanga Nek." I was skeptical but as it turned out, it was entirely accurate.

Getting out of Bhanga Nek after four days to go home was another matter altogether. Luckily this time we did have a town to enter into our GPS and the satellites knew where we were. We got out without a hitch!

It just reminded me how much better travel is now that we have all this great technology. Vince and I used to spend an inordinate amount of time pulled over on the side of the road hunched over a panoply of Michelin maps trying to figure out where we were versus where we thought we were and how to converge the two realities.

We first used a GPS by accident really. After a holiday in Barcelona in 2005, we rented a car for the drive along the Costa Brava into France and over to Provence. Somewhere in France the speedy super highway we were on ground to a complete halt. We tried to listen to the radio to get a traffic report but we couldn't deduce any information we could use. All of a sudden, cars starting peeling off to the shoulder and taking the next closest exit off the highway. We wanted to do the same but weren't sure where they were going.

@ La Colombe d'Or, Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Just then we remembered that the Mercedes we'd rented had a built-in navigation system. We got out the manual and figured out how to find an alternative route and bypass the accident or roadblock, whatever it was. We picked up the highway again a few miles past the blockage and found out later that the cause had been a huge truck accident involving a car fire. The highway had stayed blocked for hours.

with Sue in Cornwall
After that I started renting GPS systems with all my cars on holiday. I am convinced that my friend Sue and I would still be searching today for Tintagel in Cornwall if it wasn't for the clunky navigation system we rented with our car. The directional signs were limited in that part of England to say the least.

I soon purchased my own GPS back in the USA to take on the road with me. We entered all the maps of Europe where we typically rented cars and forgot about paper maps altogether. Until on another road trip - this time with my niece and sister driving from Provence to Tuscany - I found out that the GPS is not foolproof either.

sunflowers in Provence
We had pulled over near L'Isle sur la Sorgue to take pictures of a sunflower field. I turned the car off but forgot to turn the GPS off as well. When we started the car again to leave, we found that the GPS had completely run down and needed to be rebooted. We read through the manual and found that there were no explicit directions telling one exactly how to reboot. (I knew it involved sticking a paperclip in some hole somewhere but I didn't want to choose the wrong hole and ruin the system.)

There was a website help line listed in the manual, but we didn't have a laptop or iPad with us (It was 2006.) So I did the next best thing when I have a technological problem. I called Vince! Unfortunately for Vince, he was in Sydney for work and I woke him up. Once he recovered, Vince looked up the instructions on the website in the USA from his laptop in his apartment in Australia and instructed me by cell phone on exactly how to reboot my GPS in a sunflower field in France. Talk about technology crossing the international boundaries!

After that, I realized I still need to bring paper maps with me as a back up when we travel. The GPS could die or get stolen, the satellites could go bonkers and the area could still be unmapped. Like most of Mozambique by the way. 

the boys in Roma
Speaking of cell phones, there was one other time in 2001 when cell phone technology saved the day. Vince was living and working in Europe again and I came over with our sons for a trip around Italy. The boys and I started in Venice and we traveled on our own by train down through Pisa and Florence and into Rome. Finally we were to take a train into Naples where we would meet Vince. Vince would be flying in from Switzerland, renting a car at the airport and picking us up at the train station in Naples in order to whisk us all off to the Amalfi Coast for a week. Sounds easy, right? What could possibly go wrong?

Now there are five train stations in Naples and I had given Vince precise instructions on how to get to the correct station of our arrival. Of course when we got out of the station, there was no Vince. I did not have a cell phone at the time. Vince had one but the last time I saw him, his American-made phone did not work internationally. It had been on his list to remedy but it was quite a drama to make that happen. (A longer story for another day.)

Pisa decked out for a regatta
Anyway, my older son Alex somehow figured out the archaic phonecard system. We broke off the corner of the card and I used it to dial Vince's cell phone from the pay phone inside the station. Miraculously Vince answered it! He had managed to get his cell phone to work internationally just minutes before he took off for Naples. (But even as he was in flight from Switzerland, he wasn't sure it would actually work once he landed in Italy.)

I found him waiting patiently at the central train station in the middle of Naples while we were unfortunately on the outskirts of Naples at another station somewhere in "there be dragons territory" off his paper map. I gave him the exact name and location of our station and he said he'd figure something out. We had another slice of pizza and proceeded to wait some more for him to arrive.

Cleverly, he used a very non-technological method to rescue us. He hired an old school Neapolitan taxi driver to lead the way across town to our station! They settled on a price and Vince gave him half when they left and promised to give him the second half only after they arrived. The taxi driver had a little fun with Vince too. Vince had to stay on his tail at excessive speeds running stoplights and driving up curbs onto sidewalks in order to keep pace.

Back at the train station, our jaws dropped when out of the blue we saw this taxi cab screech to a stop right in front of us followed in very close pursuit by another car who had to slam on his brakes so as not to rear end the first. It was Vince! Vince handed the cab driver a wad of cash and off the Neapolitan went.

"Who was that cab driver?" I asked. "I'll tell you later," he replied.

Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Thonga fish traps in Kosi Bay lakes

The local Thonga people have been using this traditional and sustainable method of catching fish for generations in the Kosi Bay lakes.















Photograph by Bobby Haas, National Geographic Creative

The view from high above the intricate fish kraal system.




how it works
grunters

The view from below.


The Greatest Meal on Earth

Tandoori Chicken. On the braai.

Getaway magazine (March 2014) called it "The Greatest Meal on Earth" and they gave an easy recipe for it.

So we made it in our camp at Bhanga Nek before a night trek to see the nesting sea turtles on the beach.

I don't know about "the greatest" but it was pretty darn good!

The Kosi Bay Pool Bar

At the tippy tippy top of KZN about a kilometer south of the Mozambique border is the mouth of Kosi Bay. It may look like the end of nowhere ...











snorkel on over

... but it has a lekker pool bar!