Friday, December 5, 2014

The Anthropology of Dance

I love the way different cultures express themselves in dance.

Cultural and ethnic dance styles are as unique as the areas of the world they come from. Their histories and traditions go back hundreds and even thousands of years. Cultural dances around the world are practiced in Asia, Europe, Africa, America and Australia and really anywhere on the globe except probably Antarctica.



Sometimes dance is a part of sacred ritual. Sometimes it is just a way to let off some steam after the work week. Whatever. Whenever and wherever we travel I always try and seek out venues and festivals where local dancing is on display. Bonus points if we get to participate.


the Sardana in Barcelona
Sometimes I don't have to try very hard at all. Some dancing is still very much a part of everyday life. I found it amazing to see Barcelonés drop their purses and packages in the middle of an impromptu circle in the plaza on their way home from their Sunday outing in order to join hands to dance their native Sardana. We stood by and watched, trying to follow and memorize the steps in hopes of joining in. But like Greek dancing in the tavernas, it's best to left to the people who dance it from their soul.



@ a bal-musette in Paris

In villages all over France, dancing is still very much what one does on a night out. We have joined the party in a number of village squares in Provence and on the dance floor in a Paris suburb at a Bal-Musette. No experience necessary!

On some dance floors it is better to combine your dancing with lessons. Lambada in Brazil and Tango in Argentina. What better place to learn?




learning to Tango in Buenos Aires



a ceilidh ... in Kearny, New Jersey!


Not so with Irish and Scottish ceilidhs. While thrilling to watch, these folk dances and reels are very complicated. Best to just clap along and stomp your feet.













Fete de la Saint Jean, Megeve
Likewise, we left the Savoie folk dancing to the professionals on stage at the Fete de la Saint Jean in Megeve.

And at other festivals which feature dance in Brittany and Catalonia, Tuscany and Bavaria. These festivals are great. They not only bring the local culture alive but they provide a performance opportunity for traditional dance. Most of the festival dancers are pretty young so you know the dance culture will live on.

close-up of Savoie dancers
One of my fondest memories from my college summer backtracking trip across Europe involved dance. My travel buddy Laura and I were flying home from Vienna the next day and we were out on the town searching for our last meal before bed. We passed a park near the Danube where we could hear the waltzes of Strauss playing in the distance. We followed the music to a large pavilion where we found a Thé Dansant in full swing. Women in colorful full skirts were twirling around under the glass pavilion in the arms of men in suits waltzing to a full orchestra on the elevated bandstand. Laura and I joined in the fun and we never made it to dinner that night. But we didn't go to bed hungry! Years later Vince took me on our first date to see the New York City Ballet perform Vienna Waltzes at the New York State Theater. It was like watching a recreation of that very night in Vienna. I was still full on the memories.

Ilenden Festival, Bitola
If you are lucky enough to be in a village or city in the summer with a dance festival, don't miss it. When I did my field study at the archaeological dig at Heraclea Lyncestis in Macedonia, our group stayed in nearby Bitola. Every night there was another festival in this little compact city. A theater festival, an ice cream festival and the famous Ilinden Festival of Dance. All the various tribes and ethnic groups of central and eastern Europe were represented. It was awesome. Better than ice cream!
thai dancing in Bangkok

As a last resort, if we can't see them naturally on the street or in the parks, at festivals or in dance halls and restaurants, we go to a tourist show like this one in Thailand. Or floor shows in Mexico and luaus in Hawaii. And that's okay too. I just want to see the dances.







Tasty porridge (photo by Donna Abbott-Hrench)

Which is why I went to check out the Giant Ingoma at the Lesedi Cultural Center outside of Joburg. In addition to a tour through a cultural museum of recreated native villages, a film on the history of the native population in Southern Africa, and a Monati lunch or Boma dinner, they present a medley of local native dances with some background narrative thrown in.












our welcoming committee

Traditional African dance has roots dating back thousands of years. But quite frankly, since we have been in South Africa, except for when we it is part of the entertainment at the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town or the African markets in Joburg, we have not really experienced a lot of ritual featuring traditional dance. I will have to work on that. In the meantime, we have Lesedi ...

 
Joburg gumboot dancing

Xhosa dancers


Basotho from Lesotho

Swazi from Swaziland


We did have a short opportunity to join in the fun and dance as well. Fortunately none of our group seemed to get any of our dance moves on film or video. That vision is probably better left to memory.

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Christmas Gorilla


We added a new beaded animal to our collection of Christmas baobab tree decorations this year in honor of our upcoming trip to Rwanda over the holidays.
















Can you spot it?













A mountain gorilla.


Tuesday, December 2, 2014

After Friendsgiving

Leftovers! Part of the American Thanksgiving tradition.

Along with Turkey and Rice soup and turkey croquettes, we made leftover turkey sandwiches. Not just any leftover turkey sandwich mind you, but Friends Ross Geller's famous moist maker sandwich. It even has its own Facebook page!
Ingredients:
3 slices of grain bread
roasted turkey breast, sliced
stuffing
cranberry sauce (I prefer Ocean Spray jellied cranberry sauce on my sandwiches rather than our leftover homemade whole berry sauce. Less messy. Yes I brought it back from the U.S. You can't get it here. I brought back Ocean Spray raw cranberries too to make our sauce.)
gravy
 
Directions:
1. Place slices of gravy-soaked turkey on a toasted piece of thick bread. Put a slice of cranberry sauce on top 
 
2. Dip the remaining slice of bread in gravy and let it get saturated. Then stack it on top of the cranberry sauce. 

3. Stack a slice of stuffing. Top with another slice of cranberry sauce and finally another thick slice of toasted bread.



4. Push together and enjoy!














We made Turkey Tetrazzini with ...













... butternut fettuccine















frozen gnocchi

We made homemade gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce using leftover Thanksgiving mashed potatoes. We even had enough for leftover gnocchi. Leftovers from leftovers!













We took a break from turkey and ate the gnocchi with these giant Mozambican prawns.














prawns on the braai

And finally with the very last of the turkey, we made ...

Turkey pot pie! That ought to hold our turkey cravings over 'til next year.


Monday, December 1, 2014

The Nutcracker ... Re-Imagined

The original story of "The Nutcracker" ballet was written as a novella in 1816 by E.T.A. Hoffmann. Titled Nussknacker und Mausekönig, it is set as you would assume by the language in an affluent Prussian manor house at Christmastime.

In 1892, the Russian composer Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky and choreographers Marius Petipa and Lev Ivanov turned Alexandre Dumas pere's adaptation of the story into the ballet "The Nutcracker," which became one of Tchaikovsky's most famous compositions, and perhaps the most popular ballet in the world.

future dancers in the lobby
We have seen it countless times performed by many ballet companies. The American Ballet in NY, The Washington Ballet in DC. The San Francisco Ballet in CA. We have seen other interesting interpretations in the US as well. The Pacific Northwest Ballet's version with costumes by Maurice Sendak comes to mind. And Mark Morris's imaginative "Hard Nut" which he choreographed for the Monnaie Dance Group in Brussels.

If we traveled at Christmas and it was being performed where we were, we'd go. We've seen it performed at Christmas time by the Royal Ballet at Covent Garden and the Stuttgart Ballet in Germany, both choreographed traditionally after Petipa . We saw a version by the Royal Danish Ballet at Tivoli Garden in Copenhagen which had been re-choreographed and set in the winter forests of Scandinavia.

tutus
But  the one with which we are most familiar is the New York City Ballet's version choreographed by George Balanchine. A staple of our Christmas season for many years, we must have seen the NYCB version 35 times or more! It is also choreographed after Petipa and has a very Russian feel.  And no matter how many times I saw it performed, I would always cry with happiness when the Christmas tree grew and grew and grew on stage. It was just so beautiful!

We recently went to see the Joburg Ballet's  newly re-choreographed version of "The Nutcracker" which they have dubbed, "The Nutcracker Re-Imagined." It is set in South Africa and while the plot and the music are the same, the choreography and staging are anything but Russian.


the Sangoma
To begin with, Herr Drosselmeyer is no longer a Herr. Herr is a she. And she is a Sangoma. Makes sense as the original Herr Drosselmeyer was a toymaker / inventor who also dabbled in black magic.

Like the original, it takes place on Christmas Eve and the family has gathered with friends and relatives to sing and dance and feast. The children of the house, Clara and Fritz, and their friends join the party with the adults.
Instead of setting the ballet in a snowy Prussian manor house, this Nutcracker has been re-imagined in a Colonial-style hunting lodge in the green hills of KwaZulu-Natal. The house is decorated with spears and shields and animal trophies. The chairs are upholstered in  leopard print and the curtains are zebra-striped!

The guests include the Sangoma who presents Clara with a magical Nutcracker for Christmas. But this Nutcracker is zebra-striped too. Instead of Fritz pretending to be a soldier to annoy his sister with his noisy pop gun, he gets in the way with his new soccer ball, another gift from the Sangoma. After Fritz is reprimanded for being a nuisance, he still gets even with Clara by smashing her new Nutcracker though.



After midnight, the Sangoma's magic really takes over. The tree in the background becomes an enchanted baobab Christmas tree decorated with birds of paradise and proteas.
Namaqua daisies

Instead of dreaming about giant menacing mice attacking her and the injured Nutcracker in the parlor, Clara's dream takes them underground where they are confronted by acrobatic miners wearing headlamps!

The Nutcracker turns into a Sun god, saves Clara and takes her to his magical land. Not through a pine forest to a candyland filled with candy canes and sugar plums though. The Sun god takes her instead to the vast Kalahari Desert.

In place of snowflakes dancing in falling snow, there are San rock art figures that come to life to perform. The Sangoma summons a mighty rain to wash over the thirsty Kalahari turning the desert into a valley of flowers. Not roses like in the traditional Nutcracker story. In the re-imagined version, Namaqualand daisies dance the Waltz of the Flowers!

Gumboot dancers

And there aren't any Russian Cossacks jumping and kicking up a folk dance in this version either. Instead, we had Johannesburg Gumboot dancers. (Gumboot dancing was conceived by black miners in South Africa as an alternative to drumming which authorities restricted. Like the Russian Cossack dance, the Gumboot is highly athletic and animated.)

A Dew Drop and her Cavalier would be out of place in the wide open Kalahari. In their place the Sangoma has conjured up the Sun god and Moon goddess whose eclipse dance blots out the stars to convey their impossible love.
By re-imaging this most famous European ballet and giving it a distinctly South African edge, Joburg Ballet did a great job of making The Nutcracket ballet accessible to a young South African audience. And quite frankly, to some jaded older Americans as well. I had no interest in seeing the classic version here in South Africa. The inevitable comparison would have only led to disappointment. This version however was fresh and fun and kept us enthralled.

Bravo Joburg Ballet!

Christmas Crèche 2014

Top:Italy, Germany, Brazil (figures) & Mexico (creche),
bottom:France, Russia, Kenya



I have a collection of Nativity scenes and creches which I purchased during my international travel over the years.

 




Top:Israel, Ireland, Denmark, bottom:Argentina, Ecuador, Slovakia






There is no rhyme or reason to the countries represented by my collection. I do not have one from every country I've visited. Not even from every country I've traveled to at Christmas.







Top:Provence, middle:Venezuela, bottom:Austria




Some of the "Christmas countries" are represented for sure ... like Italy and Ireland.














Alex's homemade creche (top), Bethlehem,
 Palestine (middle), Quebec (bottom)









But I do not have a creche in my collection from Greece or Switzerland for instance where we also visited at Christmas time.

A lot of it had to do with opportunity. If I saw one tucked away in a shop in Venezuela in the summer, I bought it. If I didn't see one at a craft market in Sweden at Christmas, I didn't.

I would display them under Christmas trees and on tables all over the house along with my family heirloom Nativity scenes.







my family's creche growing up, a snow globe from my Sunday school students,
and a Bohemian glass painting from the Czech Republic

South Africa



Regardless, they are all in storage back in the USA and not here with me in Joburg, including the ebony set I bought in South Africa in 2012.






a wood burl creche and carved figures
from the Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt




But that means we are without a Nativity scene to display at Christmas this year.



hand-carved figures from a woodworker's shop in Florence










And that's just not right. So I needed to buy a new one to add to my collection for Christmas 2014. But I didn't want to get a second South African creche.









creche and Advent tree

Luckily we will be in Rwanda on Christmas Day. And just as luckily I found Rwanda Aid, an NGO in Rwanda that brings hope and opportunity to the people of Rwanda through various empowerment programmes, one of which is to provide street children with the skills they need  to craft lovely little Nativity scenes to sell. So I bought one.








buy a creche made by children for Rwanda Aid

If you too would like to support Rwanda Aid at Christmas by buying a Rwandan creche, you can do it online here. God bless us, everyone!