Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Khomani San Living Museum

When I heard Patricia Glyn speak at her book launch last June about the Kalahari and the Khomani San who live there, I promised myself that if I was ever in the area I would stop in as she encouraged us to do and visit with the San whose story she wrote about. Well, our recent visit to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and the Kuruman River Reserve put us right in the middle of San territory. So we made an appointment to visit the Khomani San Living Museum and spend the afternoon.
The arid wilderness of the Kalahari is the ancient home of the San  people and they have perfected life and living in this inhospitable climate.


We started out on a tracking expedition where we were shown how to read the land. Whether it had rained here recently, whether it was going to rain any time soon, where there is available food and water sources, etc.










springbok tracks



These guys do not miss a trick or a sign.


a pile of pangolin scales used for ritual charms.
This plant's tuber provides a source of water when dug up and scraped.



And they use absolutely everything!


Even the guano hanging from the sociable weavers' nests when mixed with water and honey make a kind of mead beer to drink.



They demonstrated some of their musical instruments at their ceremony tree.
do these Bushmen make me look fat?

Back at their road side craft market, we saw a demonstration of craft making.


Drilling holes in ostrich shell beads.


Heating up the metal "paintbrushes" ...

... used to burn rock art designs into bone and horn for mobiles, jewelry and other crafts. ..












... or burn holes through seeds and porcupine quills for stringing.


Making a fire the old-fashioned way.


It took a while but he got it going!


Barbara had come to Johannesburg for the book launch with Patricia and sold her crafts in the lobby of the auditorium. I had bought the necklace I was wearing from her last year!




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decorated "monkey ball" seed pods
We purchased more while we were there of course. 100% of the proceeds from the craft sales and tours are given back to the community.











gemsbok antlers




Our visit to the Khomani San Heritage park was worth waiting a year for.











a springbok horn and porcupine quill mobile






The Living Museum is located on R31 just east of the four way intersection with the road north from Upington. To book an appointment for a tour, call Barbara at 074 839 1623 or visit their website, www.khomanisan.com for more information. 

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