Heritage Weekend in Joburg: Joburg's got soul!

I have a thing about antiques, historic properties and anything vintage. I love 'em. They are more than just things because they have soul.

In the USA, we were surrounded by soul.  We lived in several designated landmark districts and owned a few historic homes over the years, including one that was a former Jersey shore guest house and one that served as a train station in the early 19th century.

Aly with the Mustang @ the Mantoloking 4th of July Parade

We drove several vintage automobiles too including one cherry red 1965 Ford Mustang. We still own a 1973 Ford Bronco which currently resides in Missouri in our friend Ric's barn. Vince constantly flirts with the idea of shipping it over here and taking it on safari. I admit that with its open roll top, stainless steel body, multiple gas tanks, and all-wheel drive, it is the ideal safari vehicle. But with the new plastic rhino horn on its hood and gun-metal grey exterior, I am afraid it might be mistaken for a female black rhino by some notoriously near-sighted bull, so No Go!

But now that you I mention it, the 1955 Chris Craft Runabout boat we ran about on Barnegat Bay would fit right in on the lake at the Transvaal Yacht Club.

I still own a treasure trove of vintage and antique jewelry and clothing that's now safely in storage along with our antique furniture, china and housewares, and cases of vintage wine. I even like my entertainment on the vintage side. I love old movies and I like to see them in old movie houses too!

So you can imagine how disappointed I was with the modern and brand-spanking-new architectural landscape I found when I first got to Joburg last December to look for a place for us to live. The northern suburbs where I was being shown apartments and houses are pretty much devoid of anything old or authentic. I realize Joburg was only developed after gold was found here in 1886 and that the northern suburbs were not even a part of the early settlement, but I was still unprepared for the "lack of African soul" I found in the Sandton area.

With names like The Michelangelo and Oxford Mews, apartment buildings are built to look like they should be in Italy, Fiji, South Florida or Jolly Old England. Anyplace but in Africa. Not even colonial Africa. The malls and office buildings are all sleek and modern ... and not in a good NYC way. Oh well, I thought, if I can get used to the high desert landscape, I could get used to the sanitary architectural landscape too.

Heritage Walking Tour

Since then of course I have ventured out of the "great northern void" and have found much more interesting buildings and historic areas. Thanks to the walking tours I've done with JoburgPlaces, Past Experiences and Main Street Walks, I have not only seen some wonderful buildings and neighborhoods but have learned their legends and interesting historical significance.

Joburg's got soul alright and plenty of it!

And this weekend we saw even more evidence of Joburg's rich architectural history. It was Heritage Weekend and we celebrated by visiting some incredible areas and buildings in Parktown and West Cliff through the Heritage Foundation's special heritage walks. (Yes I joined the Heritage Foundation too, so I will never be lonely for old buildings again!)

We concentrated on the walking tours and buildings associated with the legendary architect Sir Herbert Baker. Born in Kent and educated at Oxford in England, Sir Herbert Baker was the dominant force in South African architecture for two decades, 1892 to 1912.

Among the many churches, schools and houses he designed in South Africa are the Union Buildings in Pretoria, St. Johns College in Johannesburg, Wynberg Boys School in Cape Town as well as Groote Schuur, Cecil John Rhodes' remodeled house on the slopes of Table Mountain in Cape Town and the Champagne Homestead and Rhodes Cottage on the historic seventeenth century estate Boschendal between Franschhoek and Stellenbosch. With Edward Lutyens, Baker was even instrumental in designing the city of New Delhi, India. And he designed Rhodes University which I recently visited in Grahamstown.

embarking on the Northwards tour

In fact, examples of Baker's buildings are found all over Europe, Asia, Africa and Australia with a fine concentration right here in the Joburg suburbs of Parktown and West Cliff where he resided for many years.

Our first tour on Saturday was the Foundation's "Northwards to The Stonehouse" tour which took us to two of Sir Herbert's most emblematic buildings in Joburg. Northwards is the romantic home he designed for Sir John Dale Lace and his enchanting wife Jose.  He designed and built The Stonehouse for himself and his family.

The second day we toured the beautiful architecture and gardens of the Pallinghurst and Valley Roads in  Parktown and West Cliff. Many of the owners were at home when we toured and they graciously gave us access inside their homes as well. Some of the owners were just as interesting as their residences too. The current owner of Ye Rokkes for instance had a children's television show in the 80's which featured marionettes which she created and had on display in her home's marionette theater. Like our Kukla, Fran and Ollie, the show was a favorite among Joburg children. In fact, some of the Joburgers who were on the tour remembered watching her show as children.

Northwards' gardens designed by Gertrude Gekyll!

 portrait of Jose Dale Lace in the drawing room

The Stonehouse

The Stonehouse's beautiful gardens

Baker's signature belled roof line

Baker's Kentish brickwork over the window

Baker's signature chimney at St. Margaret's

whoops! a northern hemisphere sundial does not work
in the southern hemisphere!

the historic roads of West Cliff and Parktown

Ye Rokkes

another Baker locally quarried stone design

owner of Ye Rokkes is a  local celebrity

beautiful staircase inside Ye Rokkes

billiard room-turned-marionette theater inside Ye Rokkes

beautiful cliff view

Tudor Ridge

say Cheers to Lord Milner with a G & T at Sunnyside

A perfect way to end Heritage Weekend - and a couple of days of walking tours - was to stop by the Sunnyside Park Hotel for a gin and tonic. The hotel was formerly the home of Lord Milner when he resided in Johannesburg. Milner was the first Governor of the Transvaal. Cheers, Lord Milner!