Happy Year of the Horse

We always celebrated Chinese New Year in New York and when Vince had his apartment there, we celebrated it in San Francisco too. Two American cities with two great Chinatowns.

Of course we do not follow the Chinese calendar. It was just another excuse to get some friends together and go out and eat Chinese food. And most of the time that was the extent of our celebrations.

In fact, I only went to one street celebration in New York and it was pretty scary actually. There were explosions going off everywhere. People were just throwing long strings of  firecrackers out into the streets willy nilly from out of their third and fourth floor windows. Firecrackers were going off in the air on their way down and all over the ground wherever they landed. You were literally running through explosions. It reminded me of the fall of Saigon scene in Miss Saigon.

Well Johannesburg celebrates Chinese New Year in a big way too and there is no shortage of events over the 15 days of the New Year season. You see, Joburg has an old Chinatown and a new Chinatown and each is having their own celebration. Old Chinatown in the CBD is celebrating on February 1 with fireworks and a dragon dance down Commissioner Street. New Chinatown in Cyrildene is celebrating on February 8 with a street party.

Then there is the Chinese New Year Culture Festival on February 2 at the biggest Buddhist temple and seminary in Africa, the Nan Hua Temple in Bronkhorstspruit. They will have displays of martial arts, Indian dancing, Buddhist-related displays, lantern painting and more. There will also be different Chinese, Cantonese and Taiwanese food on offer.

And in addition to all the street parties and festivals, there is the food. We are going out tonight for a first night hot pot at The Little Sheep in Rivonia. And next week there is an invitation-only banquet at the Red Chamber restaurant in Hyde Park. We were invited and we are going! The menu is festive and the dress code is "Happy Colors."

Gong Hey Fat Choy. Happy Year of the Horse 2014!

Winos for Rhinos @ Katy's Palace

Winos for rhinos.

It's a simple algorithm really ...


















you peruse the wines ...

 you taste ...

you keep track of the ones you like ...

you purchase them and a percentage goes to the WWF to support anti-poaching.

Who's hurting you?

Life is a Cabaret

Even in South Africa, ol' chum ...

We started 2014 off on the right note at the Second Annual Jazz & Blues Weekend at the Theatre on the Square in Sandton where we saw Cat Simoni perform her new show, Cat's American Songbook.

It was basically a Steinway and a singer performing her interpretation of The Great American Songbook. The classic combo for a Cabaret. With a classic repertoire from legends like the Gershwins, Jerome Kern, Hoagy Carmichael, Johnny Mercer, Richard Rodgers, Lorenz Hart, Oscar Hammerstein, Leonard Bernstein and Cole Porter. Many of the songs were first introduced by Fred Astaire on a big screen version of New York in black and white musicals or performed live on The Great White Way by the likes of Ethel Merman.

a madcap 50th birthday party @ The Oak Room w Andrea Marcovicci

And it was a throwback to one of our favorite forms of New York entertainment over the years. From the 70's cabaret revival with the hipsters downtown at Reno Sweeny's to its heyday with the swells uptown. Julie Wilson, Mary Cleere Haran, Steve Ross, Karen Akers, Andrea Marcovicci, and Barbara Carroll at The Algonquin's Oak Room. Michael Feinstein at Feinstein’s at Loews Regency. Legendary Bobby Short at the Cafe Carlyle. 

Just the songs without the extraneous story. They're good enough to stand alone.

@ Feinstein's just prior to its closing in 2012

Many of New York's Cabaret venues are unfortunately gone now. Reno Sweeny's ... The Oak Room ... Feinstein's. All closed. To hear anything even close to The Great American Songbook live anymore in New York you have go to a Broadway revival. Or to Jazz at Lincoln Center's Allen Room in the Time Warner Building (which always seemed to me to be more like a museum than a cabaret supper club.)

Yes, the Cafe Carlyle is still open, but it cost between $155 to $205 to see Woody Allen play clarinet there on a Monday night! Crazy! We used to pay $25 at Michael's Pub to see him play and we thought that was a lot in the day. There was that pesky two drink minimum too.

But these things have cycles. Cabarets - like 70's style, swing dancing, and the slow food revolution before them - will return to ol' New York someday too. In the meantime, Cat Simoni will be performing the Ella Fitzgerald songbook in May at the Theatre on the Square in Sandton. And we'll be there!

Happy birthday Robbie Burns!

As my first full year in South Africa toddles on I realize more and more that I am a slave to the calendar. It can't be the seasonal cues - we are upside down here. It is the middle of summer in South Africa and it feels it too. It can't be the advertising. It is minimal. It has to be my inner calendar which pops up reminders of things I need to do as the months progress. Make a dinner reservation. Book a trip. Buy a new dress.
 
For instance my internal calendar has reminded me that Burns Night is January 25. Burns Night, a Scottish holiday which commemorates the birth of one of Scotland's greatest poets, is nevertheless celebrated all over the world. From Jamaica to Perth. My favorite one that I've heard about is the Toddish McWong's Robbie Burns Chinese New Year Dinner in Vancouver. It's like two for the price of one. (Ah yes, Chinese New Year is coming up too!)

And with the strong British connection in South Africa, you can bet there are a few celebrations planned here in Joburg as well. If you feel a need to celebrate, you need look no further than the nearest golf club. They are sure to plan a Burns Night supper. Or the local Caledonian or Scottish Society. My Expat Meet-up Group is even planning a black-tie charity event at Gold Reef City later in February with a Burns Night theme complete with haggis and bagpipes.

But one of my goals when moving to South Africa was to break free of the traditional chains that bound me in America, remember? Shed some of the obligations on my internal calendar, not carry them forward into my new life. Make room for new South African holidays and traditions.

So while I may have been compelled to celebrate Robbie Burns' birthday back in New York and New Jersey by going to a Burns Night supper somewhere, I will instead stay home and just reminisce a little via photographs. Okay, with a dram of whiskey by my side. C'mon!

Edinburgh

I have been to Scotland several times but never for Burns Night. (Who travels to Scotland at the end of January on purpose? Brrrr!) But I have celebrated in New York which at times can feel as cold as Scotland in January. At some formal places with a banquet at the Grolier Club and some informal places with just a dram and a toast after work at the Campbell Apartments in Grand Central Station.

But the best celebration I ever attended was in the wee village of Kearny, NJ close to where I was born. Kearny once had a huge population of Scotsmen who had come over to America to work in the local clothing mills. The demographics in Kearny have changed over the years but there is still one great restaurant which keeps the Burns Night tradition alive, The Argyle.

The Argyle holds a series of Burns Night suppers in January to accommodate all who want to celebrate.












There are bagpipes of course,

















spirited highland dancing,












the piping in  ...

and toasting of the haggis,

















and a toast to the lassies.















Vince pours some more for each toast. Be careful ... there are many of them!

Is this vegetarian haggis?

















Happy birthday Robbie Burns ... from Johannesburg!

Dear World, This is a big deal!

photo courtesy of African Parks

Britain's Telegraph Newspaper has named  Liuwa Plains National Park in Zambia one of the top 20 destinations for 2014. Liuwa Plains is one of seven national parks and preserves in six countries in Africa which are managed by African Parks, a non-profit who takes a socially conscious business approach to conservation.

The article goes on to talk about the two lion cubs recently born in the Park as well. They are the first cubs born in Liuwa in more than 10 years.

This is a big deal, people of the world! Recognition as a tourist destination means that the business model approach is working and two little cubbies being born means the conservation part is working too!

Congratulations, Liuwa! Congratulations, Lion mom and dad! Congratulations, African Parks! Congratulations, The World!

Work and Blog? Can I do both?

first day of work selfie!

I started my new job today at African Parks. As much as blogging has been a blast and a tremendous tool in helping me to make my transition to living in South Africa, I do not think I can work and blog at the same time - certainly not at the same rate anyway. Unless of course I blog about my work. Which I might do from time to time. Like when CNN does a series of reports on the poaching situation in the Congo and features one of African Parks' preserves. Spread the word!

This has always been the essence of  my conflict with the idea of blogging. I can only spend so much time in front of the computer. So you may notice my blog posts begin to dwindle over the next few days ... weeks ... and months. It doesn't mean I'm in hospital in traction unable to reach the keyboard or at home ... all alone ... in my room ... doing nothing.

It means I can either live or I can write about living, but I can't do both well! Blogging takes a crazy-ass amount of spare time and I will be too busy living when I am not working in my spare time. Just like blogging essentially put a serious kabosh on my Facebook time, work will most likely supersede my blogging time for a while too. Maybe I will get my groove back someday and do it all, but I am just warning you. Not bloody likely.

Besides, my intention with this blog has always been two-fold. To help me to process my move to South Africa and to give me something to do in my spare time until I firmly establish a life here. I figured it would take a year. I think I have accomplished both in record time.

My sister is ecstatic about this turn of events because she thinks it means I will stop quizzing her about my blog posts all the time when we Face Time. "Clearly you did not read my latest blog post ...?" But I will miss replying to the continuous questions via email, "What's new? What are you up to in Africa" with "Too much to put in an email. Read my blog if you want to know what I've been up to!"

Suffice it to say, I'll be living and working in Africa!

Good luck Jake!

@ Sterkfontein Cave in the Cradle of Humankind

Jake is one of the awesome volunteers I met in Kariega Game Reserve last August. He may actually be the most awesome of Team Awesome and Team Awesomer, the names we gave our two teams for our nightly 30 Seconds and Charades games. He was the only guy! Awesome and brave.

Jake is from Dorset in the UK. He studied animal management at university and has been working as a zookeeper, in pest management and as a lecturer for the past few years. Last August he made a life decision to pursue his dream of becoming a Game Ranger and Field Guide in Africa. Tomorrow he begins his training at Ulovane, the most respected school for field guide training in the Eastern Cape. On the grounds of Amakhala Game Reserve and not far from Kariega, the school is also a source for volunteers who assist game veterinarian Dr. William Fowlds and his Vets Go Wild. Good luck Jake!

Jake has begun a blog about his adventure. If you want to get an insider's view of the process - and who doesn't? - check out Jake's progress in traineefieldguide.blogspot.com.

More tributes to Madiba at Lilieslief

On our most recent visit to Lilieslief Farm we found that the room where Nelson Mandela stayed when he hid out there was filled with tributes by children.

Cards, letters, notes and drawings.

So touching!

This is Hillbrow!

When my friend Jake stopped over in Joburg for a visit before starting his field guide training in the Eastern Cape, he stayed with us in Sandton. 

But I wanted him to see more of Johannesburg than just the high-rise commercial buildings, behemoth malls and secure luxury apartments and homes found in the northern suburbs. I wanted him to see firsthand the gritty renaissance that is happening right now in the downtown city center. So before we toured the art galleries and markets of the already transformed Braamfontein and Maboneng precincts, we went to where the renaissance is just beginning, Hillbrow. 

We went on a walking tour of Ponte City and the surrounding areas with Dlala Nje. A combination game and play center complete with pool tables and pinball machines and a community development center fostering local empowerment projects, Dlale Nje is Zulu for "just play." 

 

The tour began inside the infamous Ponte Tower, the high-rise apartment city and the tallest billboard in Africa. With its 360 degree wraparound red Vodacom brand completely surrounding the top of the tower, Ponte City as it is now called represents both the lowest point in Hillbrow's history as well its its highest achievement. It is almost like a barometer for the area giving you a reading of the economic health of what was once the place to be in downtown Joburg.

To be exact, the tour began in the penthouse apartment of one of the founders of Dlale Nje. He gave us a 45 minute talk about the history of Hillbrow and Ponte City while we sat in his spacious two bedroom crib and took in the panoramic views his apartment afforded ...

... of Hillbrow Tower, Berea, Yeoville and beyond. 














Ponte City was built at the peak of Joburg's economically richest time for its wealthiest residents. It had all the amenities including a swimming pool, tennis courts, underground parking, and a full range of shops on the ground floor. A city within a city for the most discriminating (pun intended) consumer.

For a little bit more on the history of Ponte City's decline and regeneration, check out the city of Joburg's link, Ponte Gets a Second Life.

We learned on the tour that for the first time since 1976, all of the apartments in Ponte City are completely let with artists, students, and working families. 

Our tour guide's roommate is a photographer artist who has recently completed a work whose subject is the drug culture in Hillbrow. His compelling photographs will be exhibited soon at Arts on Main. Check it out when they do!










Ponte City is built around an open core with windows on the inside of the apartments facing the center core and on the outside facing the sky.










 







Part of the inside of the Vodacom billboard as seen from across the center core on the 52nd floor. Ironically there is no Vodacom cell service in Ponte City!

 

After the "white flight" of the late 80's, the city shut off all essential services to Ponte City including water, electricity and garbage collection. At its lowest point, when the apartments were occupied by immigrant squatters who regularly threw their garbage out the windows into the center core, ...









 




.... the garbage reached the top of the zig-zag steps, about 15 stories. Now completely cleared of garbage - it took four months! - you can see the bedrock ridge of the Witwatersrand continental divide.

walking towards Hillbrow Tower

After Ponte City, we hit the streets of Hillbrow.



















We saw the iconic.



















Examples of the "before"  ...













... and "after" of the gentrification process.





















The Classified Wall for just about anything you would want including rooms for rent and goods for sale.












 Classifieds.












 Customers.

















The notorious brothels of Hillbrow.













One of the "nicer" brothels!

the place to get your mopane worms and betel nuts

  













The colorful markets of High Pretoria Street.

tomato towers

something tells me their days are numbered

absurdly large ears of corn

The corn was magnificent! We bought some.

After our tour, all twenty of us stopped in at a local Hillbrow tavern for some refreshments. The clientele were very accommodating. In the end, Jake told us he had a really good time. Hooray!

To book a tour check out their website or "like" Dlale Nje on Facebook and sign up for one of their tour Events. You will like it too.

photo by Kate Turner

Footnote: 
As the area infrastructure continues to improve, so does the sense of community and local pride. Another thing we learned on the tour is the following tip. If you do walk around Hillbrow on your own, or hopefully with a friend, and you encounter any problems (such as a mugging, God forbid) yell "Vimba!" loudly. It means "Stop him!" People will come to your aid.

PS This is a photo of my shoes taken at the tavern by fellow tour-ist and Mail & Guardian reporter Kate Turner. While they are very cute, they were unfortunately a bit impractical for a walking tour around Hillbrow. Especially for the "hill" part of Hillbrow. Do yourself a favor when you take your tour with Dlale Nje. Wear comfy walking shoes as they suggest!