Bagel Battles in Joburg

Vince and I love to try new foods and cuisines. It is not like we have ever been stuck in a culinary rut. But sometimes you just get a craving for a slice, or a cheesy Chiles Rellenos, or a toasted bagel with a schmeer.  

Col'Cacchio has a credible thin slice pizza and their Caesar Salad more than makes up for any pizza shortcomings. Haven't been able to find Chiles Rellenos on any Mexican menu we have tried so far, but I haven't finished looking yet. Chiles Rellenos notwithstanding, I have found moderate success finding adequate Mexican food (how is that for a limp endorsement?!?) in Johannesburg. For instance, Perron in Illovo makes its own very credible tortilla chips which it serves with its guacamole starter ... but they only give you about 10 chips with your order. And they do not bring you more when they see you are out either. But their jalapeno and coriander margarita will make you forget their shortcomings!

Yeah I know. I have set a high bar. Between the Mexican I usually eat in Colorado with my sister or in California with my sons, I have been spoiled rotten. I am still searching for my favorite Mexican restaurant in Johannesburg and I will report back when, or more likely if, I ever find it.

But along with pizza and Mexican, the food I crave most living in South Africa is the New York bagel. In New York you are spoiled for choice with what seems like a bagel shop on every corner in some neighborhoods. In comparison, there are basically two games in town in Joburg. One is Feigels Kosher Deli and the other is Brooklyn Bagels.

Feigels Bagels has been around since 1968. It was opened as a deli in Bellevue and Yeoville by the redoubtable Feigel Zaslansky in 1968 and remained there for decades before moving the factory / deli to Lyndhurst and he still sends various deli lines, such as blintzes and perogen, to supermarkets.

But Feigels Bagels are only available from their small factory in the Lyndhurst Shopping Centre (behind the Shell petrol station at the corner of Pretoria and Modderfontein Roads in Lyndhurst. Phone 011 882 5305.) Made the New York way by boiling first, he sells his bagels both fully baked and ready to eat or half-baked to finish at home. They are good, but not like the bagels in New York. Too bready. Not chewy enough. And without that malt flavor one associates with a good New York bagel.

Brooklyn Bagels was founded by Mark Lipman, who invented the original Deli Diner in Killarney. An upstart, it’s only been around for 15 years. Brooklyn Bagels, which are boiled as well but made without eggs, are all sold par-baked. (Before baking, the instructions say to brush the top with an egg wash.) Lipman doesn’t carry the number of flavours one finds in a bagel shop in New York, but he likes to experiment. Among his offerings are rye bagels, olive, onion or garlic bagels — even cinnamon-raisin, which Feigels tried, then abandoned for lack of customer interest. Brooklyn Bagels can be found in supermarkets across Gauteng.

I bought a bag of Brooklyn Bagels, egg-washed the tops and finished baking them, but like the Feigels Bagels, too bready and missing the malt. They both make a whole wheat version which I may try next time I get a craving and am really desperate.

If you get a bagel craving while you are out of the house and want to just order a bagel to go with smoked salmon (no nova either) and a schmeer, you can get one at the Taigel Deli in the Thrupps Shopping Center in Illovo. But fair warning, they use Brooklyn Bagels too.

It may be kosher, but it's not New York.

PS - Possibly good news? There is a new bagel shop in town, Cape Town that is. According to EatOut, Max Bagels is a New York style bagel bar that has just opened on Bree Street - and they boil their bagels in malt syrup. Worth a try next time I am in the Mother City!