The story goes that the Banias first created the scooped-out bread and curry dish at a restaurant-cum-cafe called Kapitan's on the corner of Victoria and Albert streets in Durban. The food was a means to serve take-aways to excluded people. During the apartheid era, Indians were not allowed in certain shops and cafes and so the shop owners found a way of serving the people through back windows, etc. This was an easy and effective way to serve the workers a neatly packaged lunch. The traditional Indian meal was roti and beans, however rotis tended to fall apart as a take-away item. So they cut out the centre portion of the bread and filled it with curry and capped the filling with the portion that was cut out. Presto, Bania chow became bunny chow.
Since we were in Durban, we had to try authentic bunny chow. We had been given several recommendations. Here they are:
1. Goundens
Though
it is certainly not the easiest place to locate, it’s been said that
bunny-lovers travel from all over the world to sink their teeth into one
of their mutton monsters. Another reason why they are so popular is
their man-sized portions. Apparently they also make a mean biryani.
2. Hollywood Bets
It
seems an unlikely place to find a killer chow, but this venue is one of
Durban’s best-kept bunny secrets. Tucked away in the heart of
Springfield, it’s not too difficult to find (the bright purple walls
should help) and you can even place a few sneaky bets while you wait for
your mutton one. We know chefs that only eat their bunnies here.
3. House of Curries
The
best thing about House of Curries is that you can order a mega-bunny at
3am if you’re so inclined. Neatly ensconced in the centre of the
Florida Rd party scene, The sparse bar is packed to the rafters most
days of the week with students, locals & tourists all looking for a
piece of bunny or giant roti action.
4. Govenders
One
of Durban’s oldest and most legendary take-aways, the fact that it’s
still going strong is proof that their bunnies remain magnificent and
their customers loyal. Govenders curry has been described as ‘serious’
so no bunny novices please!
5. Brittania Hotel
With
it’s attractive colonial architecture, the listed building stands out
from the rest of the neighbourhood. Though the venue has undergone a
massive makeover, the one thing that hasn’t changed is the quality of
the bunny chows. On weekends you’ll see the pavement overflowing with
cars, their owners hungrily headed for the cafe for a taste of the local
flavour!
In the end, we chose Govenders. The recommendation came from several very reliable sources. I had the veg and Vince had the traditional mutton.
We watched the India vs. South Africa Test Match on TV while we chowed down on some bunny. I think we blended right in, no?
Coincidentally, we are going to one of the matches in the series on Friday. I wonder if they serve bunny chow at Wanderers Stadium.
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